This Lawless City Will Leave You Breathless, Literally

The World's Highest Permanent Settlement

Perched at a staggering 5,100 meters (16,732 feet) above sea level in the Peruvian Andes, La Rinconada is not for the faint-hearted. This remote mining town is often referred to as the world’s highest permanent settlement, but it’s not just the altitude that leaves visitors breathless. La Rinconada is a place where laws are scarce, dangers are plentiful, and life revolves around the pursuit of gold. The air is thin, the weather is harsh, and the living conditions are challenging, but for many, the potential rewards are worth the risks.

Read more about the effect of high altitude on human, on this wikipedia article.

The Golden Dream

La rinconada miners

Mining is the lifeblood of La Rinconada. The town’s economy revolves around the extraction of gold from the surrounding mountains. Thousands of miners work tirelessly in perilous conditions, often with little to no protective gear. The system is unique and harsh: miners work for free for the entire month, toiling away in dangerous tunnels. However, they are allowed one day a month, known as the “cachorreo,” to keep whatever gold they can find. This lottery-like system drives many to risk their lives in hopes of striking it rich.

Despite the potential rewards, the reality of mining in La Rinconada is grim. The work is hazardous, with frequent accidents and long-term health risks. Many miners suffer from mercury poisoning and other ailments due to the lack of safety regulations and protective measures.

Life Without Rules

La rinconada miners

La Rinconada operates largely outside the realm of formal law. There is no police presence, and the government has little control over the area. This lawlessness contributes to the town’s reputation as a dangerous place. Disputes are often settled through violence, and crime rates are high. The lack of infrastructure means that basic services like healthcare and education are severely lacking.

Despite these challenges, the community in La Rinconada is resilient. People come here from all over Peru, driven by the hope of finding gold and improving their lives. In this harsh environment, survival often depends on resourcefulness and forming strong social networks.

Who Runs La Rinconada?

In a town without formal governance, power dynamics are complex. The mining operations are controlled by a few powerful individuals and informal groups who oversee the work and the distribution of resources. These local leaders, often referred to as “patrones,” wield significant influence and control over the lives of the miners. They set the rules for the cachorreo system and manage the mining sites.

The lack of official oversight means that corruption is rampant. The patrones and other influential figures can exploit the miners, taking advantage of their desperation. However, some also provide essential services and protection, creating a complicated relationship between the miners and those in power.

Watch a firsthand account of life in La Rinconada in this video by Yes Theory.

 

Surviving and Thriving in La Rinconada

Despite its many challenges, La Rinconada continues to attract people from across Peru. The dream of striking gold and the promise of a better life drive many to brave the harsh conditions. Community spirit and resilience are essential for survival in this unforgiving environment. Social networks and mutual support help residents navigate the dangers and uncertainties of life in La Rinconada.

While the town may seem lawless and chaotic, it is also a place of hope and ambition. For those willing to take the risk, La Rinconada offers the possibility of a life-changing fortune. It is a place where the human spirit’s resilience and determination are on full display, making it a truly unique and compelling destination.

La Rinconada may leave you breathless with its extreme conditions and lack of laws, but it also offers a fascinating glimpse into the lengths people will go to in pursuit of a better future. It is a testament to human resilience and the relentless pursuit of dreams, even in the face of overwhelming odds.

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